Note: This is a new post in my “Breakdown” series which takes a closer look at featured cycling routes throughout California and the Pacific Northwest.

There are few climbs in the Pacific Northwest as accessible and popular as McKenzie Pass in Oregon’s central Cascade Range. It’s a bucket list ride for some, an annual tradition for others.

There are three ways to scale the mountain along Highway 242, the McKenzie Highway, and all three have their rewards. One can ride up the western slope through the Willamette National Forest and turn around at the summit. Another option is to start in downtown Sisters and make an easier ascent up the eastern side before returning to town.

The third and most challenging is to go 38 miles one way up, over and down, take a break, and then reverse for a repeat in the opposite direction.

I’ve gone all three ways and while I have my preferences, all three are worthy challenges.

When to Ride
This route is called the McKenzie Pass Scenic Bikeway, one of 18 state cycling routes that represent the best in Oregon bicycling. Snow closes the McKenzie Highway each year, typically in late October or early November, and the road remains closed until the Oregon Department of Transportation (ODOT) swings open the gates on the third Monday in June.

Some cyclists, however, don’t wait and they start pedaling as soon as the snow is gone. Don’t be surprised to see hundreds of cyclists streaming up and down the eastern slope on a May or June weekend.

(Video provided by the Oregon Department of Transportation)

But this rogue riding frustrates ODOT officials who stress that bypassing locked gates and warning signs is not safe. “There is little snow at this point, but we still have work to clear winter debris such as downed trees, rocks and limbs,” spokesperson Mindy McCartt told me today (May 29). “The McKenzie Highway closure is in place so crews can safely complete the work needed to prepare (the highway) for reopening.”

(For more on this issue, see “The McKenzie Pass Conundrum”)

ODOT is not an enforcement agency and will not patrol the road. They count on cyclists to use good judgment. So the next decision focuses on how to approach the day. Here are some ideas.

Option 1: Sisters to Sisters
This is the most popular choice. The city of Sisters creates an excellent launching point and a perfect place for a post-ride celebration. It’s also the least taxing effort. That’s because the city, at 3,189 feet elevation, is higher than Belknap Springs, the western start at 1,670 feet. Simply put, it’s a shorter push to the summit’s 5,325-foot elevation.

The 15 miles to the top feature Central Oregon’s well-known high desert landscape – scrub brush and ponderosa pines – before the trees eventually yield to the jagged basalt rock that blankets the mountaintop. The highway cuts a narrow path through the basalt, which originated as lava flowing from local volcanoes more than 1,300 years ago.

The eastern slope ascent.

Downhill from the summit toward Sisters.

The road surface, repaved in 2024, remains smooth two years later and provides one of the sleekest, fastest descents one can hope to find.

RidewithGPS.com rates this as an “HC” climb, primarily because of the distance and grade of the climb. (Here’s an explanation.)

The term hors catégorie or “HC” is used by the Union Cycliste Internationale (UCI), the international governing organization for professional cycling, to grade hills. The UCI rates roads based on a formula that scales degrees of difficulty. A Category 4 is easiest, and a “Cat” 1 is really hard. An HC status – hors catégorie in French means beyond categorization – is the most difficult, with measurements so extreme that they exceed the official scale.

The key resource in Sisters is Eurosports bike shop a block from Village Green City Park and the start of the scenic bikeway. Food trucks and cold drinks are available there.

Option 2: Belknap Springs and the Western Slope
There’s a risk/reward when ascending the western slope.

First, the benefits. The ride twists and turns for miles through a deep, shaded forest of Douglas fir before finally breaking across the tree line and finishing among the basalt rocks. And as fast as the descent is on the Sisters side, the westside ride back down to Belknap Springs is longer, faster, and technical. All that equals more enjoyment.

The disadvantage? It’s a longer, harder, steeper lift.

How much harder? The climb, also rated HC, is nearly 23 miles to the top with 3,860 feet of gain.

I prefer this side of the mountain because I love riding in the trees and it’s a thrill to glide back down. I temper each climb with frequent water breaks and photo opportunities. That’s my excuse, at least.

The route starts at the modest junction of Highway 126 and Belknap Hot Springs Road, the entrance to Belknap Hot Springs lodge and cabins.

A side note: The Aufderheide Scenic Bikeway terminus is located 9 miles west of this spot on Highway 126.

Early miles start flat and then gradually tilt up, allowing the legs time to warm up. But by the 10-mile mark, muscles are feeling the full effect. The slope starts to level off after about 15 miles, but the climb never ends until the summit and the Dee Wright Observatory parking lot.

The return trip is one of joys of Oregon cycling. It’s a fast, twisting course back through the forest. Grab the brakes and go for it but stay in the right lane at all times. Bikes are navigating uphill and motor vehicles join in from mid-June on.

Descending the western slope toward Belknap Springs.

Option 3: Over and Back Over Again
This is a serious effort. 76 miles, two HC climbs, and more than 6,000 feet of elevation gain. Plan carefully before deciding which slope to attack first. There are no services and no water on this route.

There are several places to eat, drink, and rest in Sisters if that’s the turnaround location. But beware if you start east to west. Food and drink at Belknap Hot Springs are limited with inconsistent hours of operation. Check the website for details.

Dan Shryock is a travel writer and career journalist who focuses on cycle tourism. Based in Oregon, his work has appeared in magazines and websites in California and the Pacific Northwest. His book, “Cycling Across Oregon: Stories, Surprises & Revelations Along the State’s Scenic Bikeways” is available on Amazon.

When state planners designated roads to be part of the nation’s only scenic bikeway network, they sought routes that best represented what’s available in each region of Oregon. This journey across Lake County delivers.

The course, shaped much like a rope with a slip-knotted loop, extends for 89 miles into the outback before returning to Lakeview. There are open stretches of road, rolling hills, and gradual mountain climbs as riders collect about 4,300 feet of elevation gain. The final 10 miles are an easy and, at times, exhilarating glide back to town.

Routes shaped like this are often called lollypops. In the case of the Oregon Outback Scenic Bikeway, a cowboy’s lasso may be an apt metaphor. The start town, after all, invites you to “kick off your boots and stay awhile.”

Lakeview is deep in Oregon ranching country. You’re more likely to see cattle and horses while cycling across this high desert than you are people. It’s nearly 100 miles east of Klamath Falls and 175 miles south of Bend. The California border is only 14 miles away.

It’s no surprise this region is called the Oregon Outback.

Here’s a look at the Oregon Outback Scenic Bikeway in five segments.

0 to 10 Miles
This ride officially starts and ends at the Lake County fairgrounds. Get the legs loose before the first uphill grades appear at Mile 3. There’s a brief downhill before the first significant climb of the day begins at about Mile 6, a Category 2 with ramps that reach 8 percent,

Look for the Warner Canyon Ski Area on the right as you summit by Mile 10.

10 to 20 Miles
Horse ranches dominate your views during this segment along Highway 140. Listen for a herd of cattle as they gather somewhere over a hill. Relax and enjoy the open spaces. Then prepare to gear down because …

20 to 39 Miles
… You’ve just turned left on Plush Cutoff Road. The first mile is steep and the next two continue uphill before there’s any relief. It’s an easy, albeit lonely, ride once the pavement levels off and you continue toward the town of Plush. There are no road shoulders here, but that’s not a problem. Passing vehicles are few and far between.

The next 10 miles are welcome downhill relief, and the final two here are especially fast. Look for a gravel area at Plush Cutoff and Hogback roads. It’s a good rendezvous location for any group that has spread out during the past hour.

Interested in a cold drink and perhaps something to eat? The tiny Hart Mountain Store is a half mile away in downtown Plush.

39-56 Miles
The ride from the gravel lot to Adel is perhaps the most visually rewarding segment of the day. The road gently rises and falls as you roll south, passing Hart and Crump lakes on your distant left. These waters are remnants of Ice Age glaciers.

There are several places to pull over, rest, hydrate, and take a picture. I like stopping here, if only to appreciate being in such a remote location on my bike. The last half mile slides down to Adel.

56-69 Miles
The Adel Store is another good place to regroup. You’ll find cold drinks, snack food, and a hot grill inside. It’s worth walking in if only to see a collection of horse saddles hanging from the ceiling. Be sure to tip your helmet to the local cowboys talking over coffee.

Once on your way again, follow Highway 140 west toward Lakeview through Gibson Canyon. This Cat 2 segment back up the Warner Mountains range may take a toll on weary legs but keep an eye out for Deer Creek Falls (Mile 59) and winged creatures above you along the way. I picked up a wing man here once, a bald eagle flying above and alongside me.

Take comfort knowing the hardest climbing is behind you once you’ve returned to the Plush Cutoff junction.

69-89 Miles
There are only 11 miles and 500-plus feet of elevation gain to the top of Warner Pass. The maximum grade barely reaches 5 percent in spots, a much easier effort than the first climb to the summit. Once at the top, take a moment to congratulate yourself on 80 miles of strong riding.

Now savor a celebratory trip down the steep western slope and your return to Lakeview.

Final Words
Some cyclists like to ride in forests amongst the tall trees. Others prefer wide, open spaces. The Oregon Outback Scenic Bikeway is a strong choice for anyone looking to escape to the high desert. It’s remote. It’s peaceful. And it’s challenging.

Dan Shryock is a travel writer and career journalist who focuses on cycle tourism. Based in Oregon, his work has appeared in magazines and websites in California and the Pacific Northwest. His book, “Cycling Across Oregon: Stories, Surprises & Revelations Along the State’s Scenic Bikeways” is available on Amazon.

Our cycling group typically travels with a SAG vehicle whenever we go far off the communications grid. The four of us select a 60-mile route, for example, and split it into 15-mile segments. Everyone pedals 45 miles and drives SAG support for the other 15, making sure to always be near riders should they ever be in need.

One person in our group always likes to drive the flattest miles because he loves to climb and never misses his ascents. The rest of us divide the remaining duties equitably.

I drew the third shift on the Aufderheide Scenic Bikeway (miles 30 to 45), meaning I drove while the others worked their way up the steepest part of the ride.

I want to go back and do it all again. I have two good reasons. First, I want to understand the climb, and second, I want to enjoy the day-long adventure once more.

The Scenic Bikeway

The Aufderheide Scenic Bikeway, established in November 2024, is the 18th route in Oregon’s official scenic bikeway system. It’s the fourth bikeway with some or all of its mileage inside Lane County.

I’ve ridden the other 17 bikeways, all chronicled in my book “Cycling Across Oregon,” and this may quickly become one of the most popular rides in the state network. There is limited motor traffic throughout; the road surface is better than expected for such a rural setting, the dense forest experience is fulfilling, and the challenge is there for anyone seeking a small test.

It’s an easy route to follow. While the main road (Forest Road 19) changes names on the map, there are very few turns. We started at the south end and rode north to Rainbow, primarily because we planned to drive 10 miles the next morning and climb the western slope of the McKenzie Pass Scenic Bikeway.

We’re glad we did. The ride to Rainbow constituted a lush old-growth forest along slight uphill grades, a two-and-a-half-mile Category 3 climb, exciting descents on twisting roads, and a relaxing finale.

The Breakdown

This is a point-to-point route totaling 65.5 miles. There is approximately 3,800 feet of elevation gain no matter which direction you ride.

We drove in on Highway 58 from Eugene and Interstate 5, first stopping in Oakridge for food and then moving to nearby Greenwaters Park for sunscreen, tire checks, and restrooms.

The route officially starts in Oakridge, but we concluded that riding on busy Highway 58 was not safe. We didn’t like the limited road shoulders, so we skipped the first 2.5 miles and advanced to Westfir-Oakridge Road where we unloaded bikes and started pedaling.

0-15 Miles

The map says “Westfir-Oakridge Road” here and other local names will appear later on, but it’s all national Forest Road 19. It’s also called the Aufderheide Scenic Byway, an invitation for motorists to drive and enjoy the scenery. Don’t let that idea dissuade you from riding here. We faced very little traffic throughout the day, and the vehicles we encountered all gave us a wide berth.

The road is flat and fast to start. The first major landmarks are the Office Covered Bridge and the Westfir Lodge in the tiny town of Westfir. The lodge and its Mountain Market are excellent stops.

Back on the pedals, the road tilts only slightly uphill. We never seem to mind.

15-30 Miles

The beautiful timberland continues. We have the Douglas firs, a gentle breeze buffeting branches, occasional river views on our side, and pavement sweeping around bends as we continue to climb through the Willamette National Forest.

30-45 Miles

The day’s only serious ramp starts at about mile 37. The average grade for the next 2-plus miles is 6.5 percent, and some spots reach 9 percent. Find a comfortable gear and push through, because it’s well worth it. Once over the top, you’ll drop more than 1,100 feet in the first four downhill miles and 1,500 feet by mile 45.

The road bends, it crosses creeks, and it twists through the trees as it continues on its downward trajectory. Sure, there are short, occasional rises, but it still points downward again and again.

45-65 Miles

Watch for some 3 percent climbing at mile 54 as you approach Cougar Reservoir. Follow the road along the reservoir’s west side for 6 miles and then prepare for one final, 2-mile plunge. Once on level ground, note a turn at mile 62.7 on your RidewithGPS map. The instinct may be to veer left on Cougar Dam Road; it was for us. The correct move is to turn right and pedal to Rainbow.

https://ridewithgps.com/routes/6647075

Final Words

There are certain experiences I want to enjoy every year. I try to climb McKenzie Pass every year. I want to circle Crater Lake on Rim Drive. I now have a new must-do scenic bikeway.

The Aufderheide is accessible from the Willamette Valley, serene for much of the ride, and thrilling once any hard work is done. There’s time to absorb and appreciate the beauty. It helps define why we ride.

Dan Shryock is a travel writer and career journalist who focuses on cycle tourism. Based in Oregon, his work has appeared in magazines and websites in California and the Pacific Northwest. His book, “Cycling Across Oregon: Stories, Surprises & Revelations Along the State’s Scenic Bikeways” is available on Amazon.