Biking by Train: A Week in the Pacific Northwest
Amtrak rails connect cyclists with destination trails from Los Angeles to British Columbia.
Note: This is the first of two articles focusing on bicycle travel by train. The second article, “Biking by Train: On Track to Vancouver,” posted a week later.
I love trains. I love watching the countryside sweep past the window, the gentle rocking of passenger cars as wheels clickity-clack over the rails.
I spend far more hours on my bike than inside a rail car. Still, there are similarities. Both get me out of the city and both allow me to travel without a sense of urgency.
It’s possible to journey between Los Angeles and Vancouver, British Columbia, using only trains and a bicycle. The Coast Starlight, originating in L.A., and the Pacific Northwest’s Amtrak Cascades line include baggage cars equipped with bike racks. Reserve a spot and then, once the train arrives at the station, lift the bike to the handler inside the car and find a seat.
All aboard.
I recently arranged tickets for a bike/train trip this summer from Salem, Ore., to Spokane. The process reminded me of a similar adventure in 2019 when buddy Bob Cortright and I traveled to Vancouver using only bicycles and Amtrak seats. Using the Amtrak Cascades line, we traveled for a week with only bikes and what we could carry. We had our train reservations and so did our bikes; Amtrak dedicates space for 10 bicycles on each train.
We arrived in each of our destination cities, retrieved the bikes, and started riding. After exploring a region for a day or two, we caught another train and continued north.
Start in Eugene
The Amtrak Cascades line runs between Eugene, Ore., and Vancouver, B.C. We selected three stops based on curiosity and area cycling opportunities.
The expedition started in Eugene where I met a group from GEARs, a local cycling club that welcomes visitors on club rides in and around the city. This ride started in Alton Baker Park and followed bike trails along the Willamette River before breaking through suburbia and into the countryside north of town. Eugene, home of the University of Oregon, is a bike-friendly city that’s easy to navigate.
Once into the tall Douglas firs, it was easy to forget there was a train to catch. Nearly 25 miles later, we returned to the city park. The train station was less than a mile away.
Salem, Oregon’s Capital
Salem was not on our itinerary because it is home. Anyone else planning a trip like this should give some thought to stopping here. It’s easy to pedal less than two miles from the Salem station and arrive in the country. Simply pass the Oregon State Capitol building, cross the downtown district to Riverfront Park, and ride over a hike-and-bike bridge into Minto-Brown Regional Park.
Minto-Brown provides a scenic connector to the Willamette Valley Scenic Bikeway, one of the state’s 18 officially designated scenic bike routes. The official bikeway route passes within four blocks of the train station, but the regional park is a pleasant alternative to city navigation.
Either way, the bikeway extends north and south for miles and delivers good views of the Willamette Valley.
Olympia, Washington’s Capital
Centennial Station is nine miles southeast of downtown Olympia. We followed the flat, paved Chehalis Western Trail much of the way into town. This trail is an arterial bikeway, part of Thurston County’s network of routes that crisscrosses the region. Rural roads outside Olympia lead to lush forests and panoramic water views.
Three days in Olympia gave us the time needed to explore both peninsulas along the Budd Inlet. The Chehalis Western Trail led us to Dickenson Point one day, and a ride along Cooper Point Road took us to the Evergreen Parkway Trail and Evergreen State College the next.
We left for the train station on our final day, but not before following the trail system south for a 40-mile round trip to Tenino for lunch.
Whidbey Island via Everett
That late-afternoon train from Olympia took us to Everett where we spent the night and then aimed for Whidbey Island early the next morning. To get there, we rode 6-plus enjoyable, scenic miles along West Mukilteo Boulevard to the waterfront town of Mukilteo.
A short ferry ride across the Puget Sound docked in Clinton where we followed small shoreline roads to reach Langley, our island home for the next two nights. From Langley, we explored quiet, forested backroads that rolled up and down like ocean swells.
Whidbey Island is a cycling destination worthy of a second visit. The twisting, linear island stretches more than 55 miles from Clinton north to Deception Pass Bridge and Fidalgo Island. Langley is a good base with several quality restaurants located in a quiet downtown waterfront setting.
We scouted as many roads as possible on the south end of the island before heading north. The plan was to cross the bridge and pedal to the Amtrak Cascades station in Mt. Vernon. Consistently heavy rain, however, sent us to an Island Transit bus stop where we began a series of motorized connections all the way to the train. Island Transit is an excellent free-fare service.
On to Vancouver
The final train north left Mt. Vernon in the evening, bringing us into Canada just before midnight. With bike headlights beaming, we easily navigated nearly three kilometers (Canada is metric, of course) along bikeways and quiet downtown streets.
The late-night staff at the Wedgewood Hotel held open the doors as we rolled our bikes into a storage room for safekeeping. We quickly fell asleep with thoughts of our final day – a ride through Stanley Park and a mammoth climb up Mt. Seymour.
Amtrak Connections and Planning
The Amtrak Cascades train schedule dictates the itinerary. There are 17 station stops in Oregon and Washington State, giving any planner plenty of options when choosing where to ride bikes. There also are multiple trains in both directions every day. The trick is to find a combination that optimizes cycling time in each city.
Bicycle reservations are required and available at a small fee. Checking in and retrieving bikes is easy. Simply wheel the bike to the baggage car where an attendant will hang the bike on a rack. Return to the car at your destination city and the bike will be handed down to you.
USA Rail Passes are available for passenger tickets. Amtrak officials recommend pricing the cost of the Rail Pass against individual tickets. The pass is not always the best price.
Traveling from California
Amtrak’s Coast Starlight train runs once a day in each direction between Los Angeles and Seattle with some stops matching the Amtrak Cascades line. Consider the Coast Starlight as transportation to the Pacific Northwest and the Amtrak Cascades train schedule with its extra options as a primary itinerary planner.
Hotels
Bicycle security is a concern when choosing where to stay. Are bicycles allowed in hotel rooms? Or, is there a secure room where bikes can be stored? Be sure to ask before making a reservation.
Train Resources
Local Resources
Greater Eugene Area Riders (GEARs) (visiting riders welcome)
Salem Bicycle Club (visiting riders welcome)
Whidbey Camano Islands Visitor Information
Dan Shryock is a travel writer and career journalist who focuses on cycle tourism. Based in Oregon, his work has appeared in magazines and websites in California and the Pacific Northwest. His book, “Cycling Across Oregon: Stories, Surprises & Revelations Along the State’s Scenic Bikeways” is available on Amazon or online through your favorite book store.
I have plans to eventually take the train up to OR for rides, maybe even as far as Seattle. The local Amtrak Capitol Express between SAC and SF Bay Area has been a convenient link allowing me to ride one direction and return home by rail.