Cycling the San Juans
WASHINGTON: Three days, three islands, ferry rides, and exceptional experiences in the Pacific Northwest.
Friends share stories about their favorite cycling destinations. Here in the Pacific Northwest, the San Juan Islands are a popular choice, so we decided to find out for ourselves.
We carefully planned a three-day expedition, choreographing logistics, downloading route maps, and calculating ferry schedules. Finally, we made the trip in September. We were excited to see that the San Juans combine to create a superb bicycling destination.
There’s a perfect mix of geography, variety, and density here. Or, in this case, a lack of density. Two-lane roads flow like rollercoaster tracks over countless short hills. There are forests, meadows, and beachfront roads to explore, and motorized traffic is light.
Our friends were right.
A Quick Geography Lesson
Where are the San Juans? First, travel about 80 miles north from Seattle to Anacortes and the Washington State ferry terminal. Board the ferry and ride west for 90 minutes to Friday Harbor, the commercial, governmental, and cultural hub of the San Juan archipelago.
There are 172 islands and reefs here, but our focus is on the three most popular: San Juan, Orcas, and Lopez islands. These land masses were created over hundreds of millions of years, first pushed up by colliding terranes — blocks of Earth’s crust — and then sculpted by glaciers into rolling forested lands. These were the collective home of the ancestral Coast Salish people before European immigrants took over.
Logistics
Our plan to see all three islands over three days was simple. We left the car in Anacortes and headed for Friday Harbor, walking our bikes aboard the ferry with bags on our backs. Once at our apartment, we accessed RideWithGPS and studied our routes.
We would circumnavigate San Juan Island on Day 1 and then travel to Orcas and Lopez islands by ferry the following two days. We would return to Friday Harbor each afternoon for a shower, a meal, and some sleep. It was a good plan.
Here’s an island-by-island account.
San Juan Island
The morning air is chilly and crisp at 9:30. Locals tell me the weather here is ideal for cycling in September so I’m optimistic. Any concern quickly dissipates as we begin our constant ascending and descending. Both our bodies and the island air warm up within the first five miles. We now can confirm what the route elevation profile (below) illustrated. Flat lands will be hard to find.
That’s fine with us. We’re a climbing group.
We pedal northwest to Roche Harbor, once a port for the local limestone quarry. The Hotel de Haro, reportedly the state's oldest continually operating hotel, was central to the limeworks operation when it opened in 1886. It’s now at the heart of the Roche Harbor Resort. We detour through the resort and along quiet, narrow backroads before circling back to the main route — West Valley Road.
We pass the San Juan Islands Sculpture Park and enter the forested English Camp portion of the San Juan Island National Historical Park, one half of the national park’s monument to The Pig War. That’s an 1859 squabble between British and American forces over a dead pig.
Yes, a pig.
We continue, first to San Juan County Park where we find a bathroom and a water fountain. A few tents dot the waterfront campgrounds. Five kayaks laden with gear approach across Smallpox Bay to a concrete boat launch. The kayakers are returning from a multi-night stay on a small, nearby island.
The ride continues through woodlands of Douglas firs and Western red cedars and arrives at Lime Kiln Point State Park. There’s an interpretive center here and The Blowhole concessionaire around the back offers ice cream, soda, and snacks.
We eventually arrive at the national park’s American Camp nearly 10 miles later and start another climb to the island’s extreme southeast peninsula. Heavy fog blocks our views and we decide to retreat, instead turning north to Friday Harbor.
See the map on RideWithGPS.com
Orcas Island
The best-laid plans sometimes can go awry. Personal news from Oregon indicates we may have to shorten our trip by a day. Determined to assess the cycling experience on all three islands, we split up. Bob Cortright, Patti Rogers, and John Haus are going to Orcas while I’m riding solo on Lopez. We join a line of cyclists waiting for the Tillikum ferry, some clutching morning coffees, all rolling bikes on board. The free ride leaves Friday Harbor at 8:30 a.m. The three disembark 45 minutes later while I continue for another 35.
The Orcas Island cycling experience is much different than what we found on San Juan, my friends report. The Orcas ferry terminal is on the south side of this horseshoe-shaped island, 10 miles from the community of Eastsound. While San Juan life centers in Friday Harbor and traffic diminishes as we ride away from town, vehicles regularly travel between the ferry and Eastsound, making the biking experience tenuous for less-experienced riders.
This is the most challenging of the three islands, they say. There are fewer roads, consolidated traffic, and minimal road shoulders. That doesn't stop this trio. They head for Eastsound, find something to eat, and contemplate the other half of the horseshoe. Moran State Park is the next target before Bob and John bend east at mile marker 16 and begin their 5-mile, 2,000-foot climb up Mount Constitution Road.
This is the highest point in the San Juan Islands. The Olympic and Cascade mountain ranges are visible on a clear day.
“Forested slopes most of the way up provide only partial and occasional views of the water which makes the long panoramic view from the rocky outcrop at the top all the more compelling,” Bob writes later. “Mount Constitution is a great place to get a comprehensive view of the sound and the San Juans. Pleasant hairpins make the ride up and down through the trees very entertaining.”
Note: There is a gravel section between miles 2.5 and 4.5. The group reports the gravel was “not the worst, but not the best. It’s bearable especially if you're expecting it.”
See the Map on RideWithGPS.com
Lopez Island
This is my favorite island. I can’t imagine a more peaceful destination for a casual, comfortable bike ride. One memory sums it up.
I’m pedaling up a gentle grade along Mud Bay Road. I’m in the tall trees, spinning in a comfortable gear, blissfully alone with my thoughts as I have been for the past 20 miles. While this is a primary route on Lopez Island, traffic is nonexistent on a weekday September afternoon.
Two bikes approach along the opposite shoulder, gliding downhill. The riders, Britt and Steve Fontana of Olympia, Wash., show smiles that reflect my own feelings.
“How great is this?” their grins declare.
We met this morning in Friday Harbor while waiting for the ferry and we discussed exploring Lopez Island for the first time. Now, by the side of the road, we stop and compare notes. Cycling on San Juan Island was fun, we agree, but there’s something special about Lopez. The quiet. The constant transitions from forest to pasture, from shoreline to hill climb.
“And we have the roads all to ourselves,” Britt says.
Certainly, there can be traffic. Approximately 3,000 people live on Lopez Island and most of them use Mud Bay and Center roads, says Andrea Huss, director of Lopez Island Chamber of Commerce. Traffic picks up a little during the summer and it’s perhaps heaviest where cars and trucks wait to drive onto the ferry each time it docks. But turn down the back roads and you’re alone once again.
Make your way to Lopez Village on the island’s west side for coffee or something to eat. Then escape down Shark Reef and Burt roads on your way to the Southend General Store and a short loop by the water.
My favorite stretch is a nearly 3-mile downhill roll beginning at mile 26. Stop the pedals and let gravity take you down the road, around a bend, and into the beachfront neighborhood of Port Stanley, population 8, according to a handmade driftwood sign.
See the Map on RideWithGPS.com
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These articles are offered free to everyone who enjoys cycling and travel. We cyclists are a tight group, we enjoy finding destinations and experiences. These posts are for you. Still, expenses add up.
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About the Ferries
The Washington State ferry system is infamous for schedule delays as each day progresses. We arrived on time for an afternoon return ferry from Lopez to San Juan Island only to hear an announcement that the boat would be two hours late. We considered going out again for a short ride but decided to stay at the dock. It was a good decision; the ferry was only one hour behind schedule.
Take potential ferry delays into consideration while planning the day. Follow this link for schedules.
Tour de Lopez
Join the peloton on Saturday, April 26, 2025, for the annual Tour de Lopez. There are five distances ranging from an easy 3.3-mile ride through Port Stanley to a 31-miler to Southend General Store and back. Most rides start and end in Lopez Village.
Registration opens in early February and entries are capped at 900 riders. The Washington State ferry system provides four days of free parking in Anacortes to event registrants who make reservations early.
Visit the Chamber of Commerce’s Tour de Lopez page for more information.
Additional Resources
Bike Rentals on San Juan Island
- Cycle San Juan
- Discovery Adventures Bike Rentals and Tours
- Meat Machine Cycles
Travel and Visitor Information
- Visit San Juans Visitor Bureau
Dan Shryock is a travel writer and career journalist who focuses on cycle tourism. Based in Oregon, his work has appeared in magazines and websites in California and the Pacific Northwest. His book, “Cycling Across Oregon: Stories, Surprises & Revelations Along the State’s Scenic Bikeways” is available on Amazon.